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Sunday, February 27, 2022

Roasted Winter Squash with Browned Butter

This is a rich and filling treatment for a vegetable; but yummy.


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Roasted Winter Squash with Browned Butter

Source: NYTimes Cooking
Serves 4-6


1  butternut squash, 3-4 pd
3 T extra-virgin olive oil
salt and black pepper
3 T unsalted butter
1 teas apple cider vinegar, plus more, if needed
1/4 teas red-pepper flakes, more or less
1/2 c fresh min leaves, optional
or 1/4-1/3 c pine nuts
flaky salt, optional

Place a rack at the bottom of the oven and heat to 425F. You may want to put a pizza stone on the rack, if you own one. This will help brown the squash.

Cut the squash in half and remove the seeds. Peeling is optional (keeping the peel on keeps the squash from falling apart). Cut crosswise into 3/4 inch thick slices.

Place the squash on a rimmed baking sheet and drizzle with the oil. Spread and toss to distribute evenly and then sprinkle salt and pepper over all. Ensure the squash is in an even layer and place in the oven on the low rack. Cook until browned 20-25 minutes, depending on your oven. Flip and roast for another 5-10 minutes until browned on both sides and tender.

While the squash is cooking, make the brown butter by melting the butter in a small saucepan over medium heat. Swirl the pan occasionally until the foam subsides and the milk solids turn golden brown. It will smell nutty and delicious. Remove from heat and add the vinegar and red-pepper flakes. Add a pinch of salt and pepper. If you are roasting your squash in a range oven, you can keep this from hardening by setting it on the stovetop. If you've got a wall oven, make the sauce later in the roasting procedure. 

Cut a little squash off and dip into the butter mixture. You can adjust the vinegar (I added more), the salt and both peppers if needed. If it tastes good to you, spoon the sauce over the squash and top with mint leaves.

If you use pine nuts, as I did, let them brown in the browning butter.

Friday, February 25, 2022

Braised Zucchini with Cherry Tomatoes

This quick recipe may not be truly seasonal at the moment but we can almost always find zucchini and cherry tomatoes in the supermarket. Of course, in few months, it will be seasonal.



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Braised Zucchini with Cherry Tomatoes


Serves 4

4 zucchini (8 oz each), scrubbed,  quartered lengthwise and cut crosswise into 2-inch pieces
1/4 c extra virgin olive oil
1/4 c water
2 springs fresh basil or substitute 1/2 teas dried oregano
2 garlic cloves, sliced thin
1/2-1 teas salt 
1/4 teas freshly ground black pepper pepper
1/4 teas red pepper flakes
3 oz (1/2 c) cherry tomatoes, halved (if you use grape tomatoes, you may leave them whole)
lemon wedges to serve

It's recommended you don't use zucchini larger than 8 ounces because they can be overly seedy, more watery and less flavorful. If you grow your own and have just picked them from the garden you may find them to be just fine in spite of their size. 

Place the zucchini, oil, water, basil sprigs, garlic, salt, black pepper, and pepper flakes to boil in a 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat and bring to a boil. Turn the heat to medium and cover. Simmer. Use a rubber spatula to stir the mixture every 3 minutes or so (the rubber spatula will be more gentle with the zucchini which tends to break apart). When the zucchini is fork tender (approximately 8-10 minutes) add the tomatoes and cook, uncovered for a couple of minutes until they have softened. Remove the basil sprigs and serve, passing lemon wedges. You can drizzle the finished dish with lemon juice if you prefer. 

Saturday, February 19, 2022

Farmhouse Chicken Chowder

Michael recently traveled to Idaho for steelhead fishing. When he's away, the kids know to expect lots of pasta and other high carb dishes. We discovered this soup last year during one of his trips, and it has become a staple of the "when Daddy is away" menu. 

The silky mouthfeel of this creamy soup is a main selling point for me, and the bacon and onion garnishes are a tasty addition. 



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Farmhouse Chicken Chowder

Adapted slightly from Cook's Country: https://www.cookscountry.com/recipes/6436-farmhouse-chicken-chowder

6 slices bacon, chopped
6 scallions, white parts chopped fine and green parts sliced thin
2 carrots, peeled and sliced thin
1 celery rib, sliced thin
Salt and pepper
6 tablespoons all-purpose flour
5 cups low-sodium chicken broth
1 pound red potatoes, scrubbed and cut into 1/2-inch pieces
~3 c rotisserie chicken, cut or shredded into bite-size pieces 
1 cup half-and-half (or 1/2 c cream and 1/2 c milk)
3/4 c frozen corn

Cook the bacon in a dutch oven until crisp. Remove the bacon and put on a plate lined with paper towels. Spoon out all but 1 T bacon fat. Add the scallion whites, carrots, celery, and 1/2 teas salt and cook until softened, 5-7 minutes. Add the flour and stir frequently for a minute or two, until the flour is golden. 

Add broth and potatoes, then bring to a boil. Simmer on medium-low under vegetables are tender, 10-15 minutes. Add chicken, half-and-half, and corn and cook for a couple of minutes until the chicken and corn is heated. Season with salt and pepper, then garnish with scallion greens and bacon at the table. 

Wednesday, February 9, 2022

Roasted Chicken with Peaches, Basil, and Ginger

I'm always too busy cooking during peach season to post recipes so here's one to help me remember bright summer meals as I wait for the end of winter. 

Use crusty bread to soak up the delicious juice. 



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Chicken with Peaches, Basil, and Ginger


Source: https://cooking.nytimes.com/recipes/1012681-roasted-chicken-thighs-with-peaches-basil-and-ginger

This is about what I make for my family of 6, though the amounts are flexible. 

1 1/2 lbs peaches (firmer fruit is easier to cut but softer peaches will taste just as good)
3 lbs boneless, skinless chicken thighs
6 T extra virgin olive oil
6 T dry sherry or dry vermouth
6 T chopped basil
6 garlic cloves, minced
1 3-inch piece ginger root, peeled and grated
1 1/2 teas salt
1 1/2 teas pepper

Preheat oven to 400F. Halve the peaches and cut them into 1/2 inch slices. 

Toss together all ingredients except for half of the basil on a sheet pan. Roast for 20-25 minutes, until the meat is cooked completely. Sprinkle with the remaining basil. 

Quick Butternut Squash Soup with Apples and Bacon

Michael makes fun of me for eating soups primarily during cool weather and salads in the summer, but I stand by my seasonal eating habits. There's nothing quite like warming up from the inside out. Though this weekend will feel like spring, it's still winter for a couple of months, and this recipe is a quick option for butternut squash soup. 

I love that the technique in this recipe does not require cubing the squash, which takes forever. And, though you might not think bacon goes with allspice, the soup's flavors are delicious. I will sometimes garnish my bowl with toasted walnuts and chives, in addition to the bacon. This is lovely in a bread bowl!



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Quick Butternut Squash Soup with Apples and Bacon


Source: How to Cook Everything Fast by Mark Bittman

8 slices bacon
1 medium butternut squash (1 1/2 pounds)
2 large apples
1 small onion
1 teas allspice
1/4 teas cayenne (1/16 teas for Betsy)
salt and pepper
5 c chicken stock
1 c cream

Prepare the squash: peel it, scoop out and discard the seeds, and cut into pieces that will fit well in a food processor. Bittman's instructions for peeling work well: "Cut the squash in half around the equator, stabilize the flat side on a cutting board, and work downward with a chef's or paring knife to slice the skin from the flesh, turning the piece as you work, then trim off the ends."

Cut the bacon into 1-inch pieces and begin cooking it in a large pot over medium heat. When the bacon is done to your desired crispiness, remove it from the pot and place it on a plate lined with paper towels, leaving the rendered fat in the pot.

While the bacon is cooking, peel, quarter, and core the apples. Then trim, peel, and quarter the onion. Shred the squash, apples, and onion in a food processor using a grating disk.

After the bacon is removed, add the shredded vegetables to the pot and turn the heat up to medium-high. Add the allspice and cayenne, along with a sprinkle of both salt and pepper. Stir and cook for about minute, until the spices are fragrant.

Add the stock and cream. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat so the soup simmers. Cook for 10-15 minutes, until the squash is tender. Turn the heat off and use an immersion blender to puree the soup.

Adjust the seasoning, if necessary, and then serve, garnishing with bacon.






Sunday, January 30, 2022

Brookies

Recently both Betsy and I cooked this cookie-brownie combo and it's not surprising that we both liked them. Plenty of chocolate!




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Brookies


Adapted from NYTimes Cooking
Yields a 9X13 pan

Altitude adjustments for around 5000 ft above sea level:

Add 1 tablespoon flour for each cup of flour (I added half a tablespoon in the brownies and one tablespoon in the cookie dough) 
Subtract 1 tablespoon for each cup of either sugar


For the brownie batter:

8 T of unsalted butter, not including what you use to grease the pan
2 large eggs
1 1/2 teas vanilla extract
1/2 c AP flour
3/4 c cocoa powder, Dutch-process or natural
1/4 teas kosher salt (Diamond Crystal)


For the cookie dough:

6 T unsalted butter
1 c packed brown sugar, light or dark (but dark makes a prettier Brookie, I think)
2 large eggs
2 teas vanilla extract
1 1/4 AP flour
2 teas baking powder
3/4 teas kosher salt
1 1/4 c chocolate chips or chopped bar chocolate
3/4 c chopped walnuts or pecans, optional

NYTimes Cooking suggests that this recipe saves on dishes because you mix each batter in the same saucepan but they have you put the brownie batter in a bowl, wash the saucepan out by hand and then mix the cookie dough. This is certainly fine but not a true labor-saver. I, however, used a different saucepan for each batter. I believe I could streamline this next time by mixing the cookie dough first, placing it in the prepared baking pan while making the brownie batter in the same (well scraped) saucepan without washing it (the little bit of lighter dough wouldn't be a problem). This would mean the brownie portion would be more "on top" and would change the appearance of your final product but not the taste. These instructions reflect that choice. If you prefer, just use two saucepans.

Prepare the baking pan by greasing it and lining it with a generous sheet of parchment paper. It will be helpful when removing to have some excess on the ends or sides so you can use the paper as handles.

Preheat the oven to 350F.

Make the cookie batter first. Put the butter and sugar into the saucepan and heat over medium heat until the butter is melted. Lift the pan from the heat and vigorously whisk until the butter and sugar and completely combined. Let sit a few minutes to cool somewhat. You can chop nuts, or measure chocolate chips.

Once somewhat cooler, beat in the eggs by hand one at a time and add the vanilla. Stir in the flour, baking powder and salt. Stir in 3/4 cup of the chocolate chips or chopped chocolate and add the nuts. 

Using a spring-type ice cream scoop, place this dough in clumps in the bottom of the prepared pan. Use a rubber spatula to scrape out the dough as well as you can.  Set aside while you make the brownie batter.

Combine the butter and sugar in the saucepan and heat until the butter has melted. Off heat, vigorously whisk until combined and let rest and cool a bit.

Add the eggs one at a time and then the vanilla.

Stir in the flour, cocoa powder, baking powder and salt, ensuring no streaks of flour remain.

Using the ice cream scoop, place this batter amongst or on top of the cookie dough clumps. Use a small offset spatula to spread into an even layer, marbleizing as you spread. Sprinkle the dough with the remaining half cup of chocolate chips.

Place in oven and bake 20-25 minutes until a toothpick comes out with just a few moist crumbs. Set on a rack and cool completely before attempting to remove from the pan. Cut into bars and serve. 

Wednesday, January 26, 2022

Bacon Jam

After discovering bacon jam at a charcuterie cafĂ© a couple of years ago, I was compelled to make it for myself. Having this recipe has been especially convenient during the last couple of  years. 


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Bacon Jam

Makes about 1 1/4 cups

1 pd regular bacon (not thick-cut), cut crosswise into half-inch wide strips
1 c thinly sliced onion
4 sprigs fresh thyme
2 garlic cloves, smashed and peeled
4 c water
1/3 c cider vinegar, although any variety can be used
1/3 c maple syrup
1/8 cayenne pepper, more or less

In a 12-inch skillet over medium heat, cook the bacon until it is crispy, 15-20 minutes. Remove the bacon and place on a paper towel plate or quarter sheet pan. (I just used a bowl without a paper towel.) Remove most of the fat from the skillet, keeping only a couple of tablespoons for further cooking.

Add the onions, thyme, and garlic to the bacon fat and keep cooking over medium heat until the onion is browned and softened, 5-10 minutes. Add the water, vinegar, syrup and cayenne and stir. Then stir in the reserved bacon and increase the heat to medium high. Stirring occasionally, cook until nearly all the liquid has evaporated. In about 22-30 minutes the mixture will start to noticeably sizzle. 

Take the skillet from the heat and allow to cool for 10-15 minutes. Remove and discard the thyme sprigs. Use a rubber spatula to transfer the mixture from the skillet to a food processor and pulse 15-20 times until the bacon and onions are finely chopped. Serve warm. 

ATK states that this can be kept refrigerated for up to 4 days and reheated carefully in the microwave for a minute. If you want to store it longer, freeze it.

One of my favorite sandwiches is bacon jam on flat bread with arugula and burrata cheese.